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Production Info

Tuffy Plants: Production Notes

Cultural Notes

  • Water: Generally speaking Dianella and Lomandra sp. prefer to be grown “dry”; typically the plants will suffer root rot from over irrigation.
    Fertilizer: Lomandra and Dianella are both moderate feeders.
    Planting Depth: IT IS CRITICAL THAT THE PLANTS ARE NOT BURIED TOO DEEP WHEN POTTING…the higher the better. If liners are potted too deep then crown rot issues may arise.
  • Spacing: If possible, do not grow them “pot-tight”, rather space the pots to increase airflow for disease management and better growth and plant habits
  • Light: Grow in full sun with the exception of Tasred which requires shade. In Florida and the southeast, Lomandra will also benefit from shade (approx 30%)
  • pH of 6.0 to 6.5
    Crop Cycles:
  • Crop Cycles vary by location but, generally speaking, in a “warm” climate (i.e. southern California, south Texas or south Florida), recommended crop cycles are as follows:
    • Dianella:
      • To finish a 1-gallon for spring sales, plant a c/p 72 liner the previous fall; 20 to 24 weeks depending on location and duration of winter conditions.
      • To finish a 1-gallon for summer and fall sales plant c/p 72 liners the previous spring; crops may finish in as little as 12 weeks, depending on location.
      • To finish a 3-gallon for spring sales plant c/p 72 liners directly into the 3-gallon pot in late spring/early summer of the previous year.
      • To finish a 3-gallon for summer and fall sales plant c/p 72 liners directly into the 3-gallon pot in late summer/early fall of the previous year.
    • Lomandra:
      • To finish a 1-gallon for spring sales, plant a c/p 72 liner in the previous fall; 20 to 24 weeks depending on location and duration of winter conditions.
      • To finish a 1-gallon for summer and fall sales plant c/p 72 liners in the previous spring; crops may finish in as little as 14-16 weeks, depending on location.
      • To finish a 3-gallon for spring sales, plant c/p 72 liners into a 1-gallon pot in late spring/early summer of the previous year, and then transfer the 1-gallon plant to a 3-gallon pot in late summer/early fall of the previous year.
      • To finish a 3-gallon for fall sales plant c/p 72 liners into a 1-gallon pot in late summer/early fall of the previous year and then transfer the 1-gallon plant to a 3-gallon pot in late spring/early summer.
      • Again, these are very conservative approximations. Actual crop cycles will depend on the grower’s location and the specific variety. It is quite possible for a grower in southern California or South Florida to finish these plants within one growing season. For example, we have observed 3-gallon Dianella in South Florida that were finished for fall sales in 6 months from a c/p 72 liner. For more specific information, contact Ozbreed.

Planning your production using “conservative” crop cycles will ensure a full plant and a nice presentation for customers.  These are general guidelines; for more information, contact us.

Irrigation

As previously mentioned, it is essential that the pot media does not remain saturated for any length of time. Under these conditions, root rot (Pythium and/or Fusarium) may develop; anthracnose leaf spot (Collectotrichum spp.) has also been observed in some regions. Often, the pathogen does not immediately kill the plant but it slows plant growth significantly. These weakened plants will often fail after landscape installation.

For the best looking and healthiest plants, irrigate thoroughly and then allow the pots to dry almost to the wilting point before irrigating again.

Growing Media

We recommend a “light” mix; one example: 80% composted pine bark (> 3/8 in.), 10% peat, 10% sand with a starter slow-release fertilizer containing minors, gypsum

Fertilizer

To avoid fertilizer phytotoxicity we recommend fertilizing with a slow-release Nitrogen (8-9 month) product with a ‘good’ micronutrient blend. One with a formulation somewhere around 3:1:2 N/P/K.

These plants (like most) will also benefit from bionutritionals such as humates, mycchorizae, etc.

If your media and/or water is alkaline then you may want to supplement with chelated iron or a full micro blend to improve foliage color.

Insect Control

In general, there is no need for preventative chemical measures and little need, if any, for corrective treatments. However, there are always exceptions and insect populations can reach treatment thresholds… We have observed: grasshoppers, spider mites, and scale.  Use Acephate (Orthene), Bifenthrin (Talstar), Carbaryl (Sevin) for chemical control

Fungicides

The following pathogens have been observed on some of the Celebrated Plants:

  • Colletotrichum (anthracnose leaf spot): Can invade foliage stressed by pesticide burn, insect damage, or fertilizer toxicity
    • Reduce/remove irrigation to prevent infestation
    • Avoid fertilizer high in P
    • For chemical prevention and control use thiophynate-methyl (Cleary’s 3336), strobilurin fungicides (Compass), and chlorothalanil (Daconil)
    • Pythium (root rot): Soil borne pathogen that can enter around the crown and/or roots
    • Plant with crown 1’ above finished grade
    • Reduce/remove irrigation to prevent infestation
    • Avoid over-fertilization (fertilizer burn)
    • For chemical prevention and control use:Terrazole, Fosphite, Aliette, Prodigy, Subdue Maxx
  • Fusarium (root and stem rot): Soil borne pathogen that can enter around the crown and/or roots causing necrosis (death)
    • Plant with crown 1’ above finished grade
    • Avoid over-fertilization (fertilizer burn)
    • Reduce/remove irrigation to prevent infestation
    • For chemical prevention and control drench: thiophanate-methyl, Medallion, Heritage, Terraguard
  • Herbicides

We are still investigating herbicide tolerance but many growers have reported using:

Pre emergent:

    • Rout – watch the rate; if it gets too hot you can have some toxicity
    • Snapshot
    • Ronstar

Post emergent:

  • 2,4,-D (but no 3-way herbicides)
  • Fusilade

Try on a small area before broadcast applications